Berlin
THE FOOTBALL
For many years Berlin was the only capital in Europe without a top-flight club and the locals didn’t really seem to care. But having hosted half a dozen World Cup games in the summer, of 2006, including the final, the German capital is back on the football map.
The Olympiastadion was given a £165m facelift for the World Cup, but was originally built by the Nazis for the 1936 Olympics – when Jessie Owens tore up Hitler’s script by winning all the gold medals.
These days the stadium, which still has a decidedly totalitarian feel, is home to Bundesliga club Hertha Berlin, who share it with American football outfit Berlin Thunder.
The 74,500 seats make it Germany’s second largest football venue, and though it lacks the pure football intensity of the even bigger Westfalenstadion of Borussia Dortmund, or the blow-your-mind appeal of Bayern Munich’s stadium, it is still an impressive place to watch a game, while munching on bratwurst and downing a few beers.
With Hertha’s traditional rivals Tennis Borussia (no, really) languishing in the fourth division, there is no derby to speak of. Instead locals look forward to the visit of Bayern; that’s a guaranteed sell-out, but crowds for other Bundesliga games range from 30,000 to 60,000, so tickets are generally easy to come by.
Most games are played on Saturday afternoons (kick off 3.30pm not 3pm), with the odd Friday or Sunday fixture too.
THE CITY
Since the Wall came tumbling down in 1989, Berlin has well and truly
rediscovered its mojo as capital of the unified Germany, and the 2006
World Cup gave it the perfect chance to remind us all just how cool a
place it is.
As stylish as Paris or Barcelona, but cheaper, Berlin claims to be
the city that never sleeps, and arguably has the best nightlife in
Europe. It certainly has the biggest choice of clubs and bars.
To sample Berlin at its relaxed, multicultural best head for the
Prenzlauer Berg in what was East Berlin. And be sure to check out the
Kulturbrauerei, a vast complex housing clubs, galleries, bars,
restaurants and cinemas all within a converted beer brewery compound.
Go in early August, and you’ll catch both the start of the
Bundesliga season and the annual International Berliner Bierfestival,
claimed to be Germany’s largest alefest – offering 1,750 beers from 80
countries.
At the end of August, you will witness a mass collection of
soap-dodgers taking part in Europe’s biggest rally for the legalisation
of hemp, the Hanf Parade while the film buffs among you should visit in
February, when the Berlin Film Festival is on. Most of the 500 films on
show are open for public viewing, but be warned: around 150,000 other
movie fans will be vying for a piece of the action.
Don't miss
Check out Checkpoint Charlie, the most famous Berlin Wall border control point between East and West. Next door is the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, a museum dedicated to the history of the wall.
Travel tips
For those wanting to experience a bit of the national culture during their time in Berlin, the state museums and galleries are worth a visit. Many of them offer free entry on Thursdays, however most are closed on Mondays. A day ticket for all state owned museums costs 10 Euros.