Istanbul

THE FOOTBALL

Galatasaray have the international pedigree, Fenerbahce have as many domestic titles and the biggest fan base while Besiktas boast the longest history and nicest stadium.

Matches involving the three are fierce, those involving the first two explosive. For derby games, buy tickets from Biletix (www.biletix.com), with outlets all over the city.

Galatasaray play at the Ali Sami Yen Stadium, in the grimy district of Mecidiyekoy, a traffic-choked bus journey from central Taksim Square.

Still holding just 22,100, renovation was completed in late 2005 although plans are well underway for a new stadium of the same name in the Syrantepe quarter in the Maslak financial district. The constant drumming and ritual chanting begins well before kick-off.

Over the Bosphorus, Fenerbahce’s Sukru Saracoglu Stadium has also recently been renovated, its 50,000 all-seated stands close to the pitch but comfortable enough to warrant a bid for the 2008 UEFA Cup Final. It overlooks Kadikoy harbour, with regular 15-minute crossings from Eminonu near Sirkeci station.

Besiktas’ Inonu Stadium, with views of the Dolmabahce Palace and the Bosphorus beyond, holds 32,000 spectators comfortably. It’s a short hop by public taxi (dolmus) or a 15-minute walk from Taksim.

THE CITY

Few ferry hops can be as dramatic as the one from Europe to Asia, taken by locals for a few pennies every 10 minutes between Istanbul’s bustling shores. On one side rise the historic sights of Sultanahmet, the Haghia Sofia, Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque; on the other, the chaotic sprawl of Kadikoy and Asia.

Fought for by Persians, Romans and Greeks, Constantinople was a Byzantine stronghold attacked by Crusaders and Ottomans, who created a great imperial capital.

A regular bidder to stage the the Olympics and host of Liverpool’s famous Champions League victory of 2005, Istanbul is a modern capital with significant Muslim, Greek Orthodox, Armenian and Jewish elements.

But one three-way conflict divides like no other: the eternal battle between Galatasaray, Besiktas and Fenerbahce, winners of every Turkish championship but six since its inauguration in 1959.

Don't miss
Bargain at the Grand Bazaar. Its 5,000 shops and 65 alleyways sell carpets, water pipes, silk, gold...

Travel tips
After a hectic day taking in the sights and shopping at the bazaars, why not find time to relax at one of the 20 Turkish baths in the city? Known to the Turks as hamams, they’re the perfect place to experience the local tradition and culture first hand.