Prague
THE FOOTBALL
Like the city, the Czech game has been relatively unchanged for decades.
The Sparta-Slavia rivalry goes back more than 100 years, from the first game on the Letna parkland where Sparta still have their compact, 22,000-capacity stadium. Also used for national games, it’s an easy metro journey to Hradcanska on green line A.
It’s nearly always filled with home fans, the more fiery ones in the south end. Tickets, as everywhere in the country, are cheap and available on match day.
Rivals Slavia play at Eden, on Vladivostocka, on the tram 4, 7 or 22 line. It’s a modest ground, less than half the 16,000 capacity seated. The bars around it, such as the Pivnice U Stadiony, appear no different from how they would have looked 40 years ago.
Back then, Dukla Prague were in their prime, an army side favoured by the Communist authorities and a powerful force in Europe.
When state backing withered, Dukla almost went under, but reappeared as Pribram. Now back in the top flight, they play just outside Prague at the Stadion Na Litavce, a hop on the 18 bus from Andel metro stop.
THE CITY
As if by some miracle, Prague offers the finest and the cheapest beer in the world. It is served in hulking great glasses by rotund waiters in classic old beer halls, of a quality and tradition unchanged for centuries.
Whatever the world can throw at it – floods, Soviet tanks, British stag weekenders – Prague remains serene, majestic.
A trek up the hill to Prague Castle and St Vitus’ Cathedral from the Old Town entails a walk through the Old Town Square past the famous astronomical clock, over the statue-laden Charles Bridge and up ornate Nerudova.
In the newer part of town, Wenceslas Square is disappointingly ugly – but a rallying point for great moments in Czech history, political and sporting.
Prague also has a thriving music scene, having played host to many a Mozart concerto at the end of the 18th century. These days, if listerning to a local Czech covers band doesn’t appeal, many of the world’s top acts include the city among their tour venues – Madonna, The Red Hot Chili Peppers and Guns N’ Roses have all played there in recent times – and tickets are often available at knockdown prices to ensure full houses at either the Sazka Arena or the T-Mobile Arena.
Don't miss
Find a classic old Prague pub – perhaps U Cerneho vola by the castle – and order a glass of the finest local brew, poured from the old-style taps. The waiter will bring it over and mark a line on your beermat. Take one first sip. Seventh heaven for 60p.
Travel tips
Visit the city’s tallest structure, the Zizkov Television Tower. Standing at more than 216 metres high, the tower is visible from most of the city. The tower contains pods at different heights with different functions. At 60 metres, visitors to the first pod will find a restaurant and café area; 40 metres higher, tourists reach the observation deck. Sculptures of crawling babies, created by Czech artist David Cerny, adorn the tower’s sides.